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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 460
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Posted: Thu May 01, 2008 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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Not surprisingly, much of the preliminary search consisted of either manufacturer or distributor information (read: hype). I haven't had much time to investigate, but here are a few things I found - | Quote: | HALOGENS (IODINES) Brand Names: Vanodine
Most iodine-containing disinfectants also contain a detergent, and are called "iodophors". Iodophors are compounds in which the iodine is "tamed" and are considered safe to use around birds. They have a good germicidal and anti-fungal action, but not the undesirable properties of iodine. They are also a reasonable viricide but only after prolonged exposure. They are not particularly good as sporicidal agents. They have a limited vapor production, are not affected by hard water, have a long shelf life and work well in hot or cold water. They are medium cost
Iodophores are a good disinfectant for water and food containers and aviary surfaces. Although they stain plastic and hands, when the solution has lost its brown color it's an indication to change it. For cleaning, Vanodine should be used in a solution of 1/2 fluid ounce to 1 gallon water. Vanodine needs no rinsing, is odorless and contains no alcohol or bleach. It is however, easily deactivated by contact with organic debris, is not effective against hydrophylic viruses such as polyoma, and is not effective against all strains of pseudomonas bacteria . | http://www.netpets.org/birds/healthspa/biosafety.html
Here is some info on what Vanodine is supposed to be effective against, with the necessary solution strengths (take note of these, especially regarding pathogens that are likely to be found in reptiles). It is copyrighted material, so I am not quoting the text - simply directing you to it. http://www.barbibrownsbunnies.com/vanodine_bacterial%20pathogens.htm
I haven't had the time to do a serious investigation yet, (and I probably won't for several days,) but I'm interested... Of course, of major importance is the phrase when used as directed, lol - as in, nontoxic when used as directed (or at appropriate dilutions).
The general disinfection strength, per the manufacturer, is 1:250...which is 0.5 oz (3 tsp) per gallon. At that concentration, according to the information at the link provided above, it is INEFFECTIVE against adenovirus, pseudomonas aeruginosa, proteus vulgaris, salmonella, transmissible gastroenteritis (coronavirus), rhabdovirus, parainfluenza, mycobacterium sp, mycosporum sp, rotavirus, klebsiella sp, escherichia, enterobacter, clostridium, blah, blah, blah. (I'd love to come across a list like that for some of the other products, lol)
One of the things, I hope to find is some information on the amount of contact time required for effective use against some specific pathogens...but that, of course, would be skewed (somewhat) by the concentrations used. In addition, but probably more difficult to learn, I would like to find some information on the effect of repeated exposure to the increased concentrations required to kill some of the more common pathogens we face. (some of the information I saw said that glove use is required, even at the general disinfection dilution - so I can't help but wonder about long term exposure to our captives)
(btw - wtf is the story with the "keyword" highlights on this site?? it's really annoying - esp since I had to go back and change my highlighting color because it looked like I had gone nuts and was highlighting random crap)
Last edited by hhmoore on Thu May 01, 2008 5:47 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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NickMyers03 Moderator

Joined: 12 Dec 2006 Posts: 1892 Location: fredericksburg va
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Posted: Thu May 01, 2008 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | (btw - wtf is the story with the "keyword" highlights on this site?? it's really annoying - esp since I had to go back and change my highlighting color because it looked like I had gone nuts and was highlighting random crap) |
LOL, i do believe its part of the google search on this site.
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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 460
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Posted: Thu May 01, 2008 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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| deborahbroadus wrote: | | I consider anything that has to be done "correctly" to contain "risk." |
btw, Deb - I suspect that anything you will find will come with directions, and some sort of use as directed clause/comment...so they will all have some inherent "risk". How many times have I told you there is no perfect cleaning & disinfection alternative? By all means - keep looking, I'd love for you to find it...if for no other reason than I WANT IT, TOO!!
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deborahbroadus Moderator

Joined: 16 Jul 2006 Posts: 6671 Location: Baltimore, MD
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Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 9:08 am Post subject: |
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| hhmoore wrote: | | deborahbroadus wrote: | | I consider anything that has to be done "correctly" to contain "risk." |
btw, Deb - I suspect that anything you will find will come with directions, and some sort of use as directed clause/comment...so they will all have some inherent "risk". How many times have I told you there is no perfect cleaning & disinfection alternative? By all means - keep looking, I'd love for you to find it...if for no other reason than I WANT IT, TOO!! |
Ok, I accept the jab. But I can't use bleach, this has been proven to me. I have to have something that is effective yet harmless to reptile scales and skin so that I get absent minded, or if anyone else is doing the cleaning for me, accidents of the sort that I previously experienced will not happen.
I am ok with the idea of using bleach to clean the tubs outside in the summer and I can purchase new tubs so I can do switches (like I do with the rat tubs) but in the winter that would be difficult (and ultimately that bleach is going to be killing my grass and lord knows what it's going to be doing to the ecosystem).
What I am looking for is something that will kill the most germs, fungus and virus inherient to the snakes that I have (those nasty critters that can cause all sorts of havoc if let loose in my collection) (NOT BLEACH).
Nolvasan Solution Disinfectant needs a high level of ventilation and my set up is in the basement. Also it seems that it's dangerous if it gets on hands or skin or scales.
Chlorhexidine is perfect, imo, but apparently it's not doing what I thought it was doing and it would be a matter of time before I had to experience the results of blindly trusting only Chlorhexidine.
((pacing floor, what to do, what do do?))
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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 460
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Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 4:07 pm Post subject: |
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It was all so much easier before I came into your world, wasn't it Deb?
(actually, you came into mine...but that is just splitting hairs, lol)
Chlorhexidine gluconate is a good product - when used properly (fresh solution, appropriate dilutions, not mixed with detergents, allowing necessary contact time, etc). It is also pretty darned safe.
Vanodine, at first glance, looks pretty good, too. Look at the post with which I responded to your query about it - toward the end, I listed a bunch of microbes/pathogens. I capitalized, bolded, and highlighted the word ineffective to get an important point across, but just before that was a phrase that I underlined: At that concentration. According to the page I linked, Vanodine IS effective against those pathogens...but, in many cases, it took a 3x stronger solution (1:80 vs 1:250). The questions that remain unanswered for us (somebody, somewhere, may know them) are what contact time is needed and if those stronger concentrations are safe for contact & extended use. Personally, I'm not sure how I feel about the staining of tubs, bowls, etc...but, if there is no harmful residue, that is strictly aesthetic.
The degree of disinfection needed/desired can be related to many factors. Obviously, with an established collection, you can breathe quite a bit easier, and take a somewhat less aggressive approach. Some of the bugs I listed are actually found in the g.i. tracts of our animals - but, given the right circumstances, they can cause problems. Aahhhhh, I can feel the minds pulling it together...yes, they're opportunistic pathogens. They cause problems when the host's immune system is diminished, the population explodes, or there is transmission to an area they don't belong. Healthy animals & good routine cleaning/husbandry are pretty much all that is required to keep them in check. I think it is probably widely accepted/understood that adding animals to our groups makes them vulnerable. For this reason, proper quarantine is a hot topic - it won't necessarily prevent issues with the new arrivals, but the focus is on isolating those problems & preventing them from spreading to your other animals. That is the reason that I routinely use stronger products on quarantine items - I just don't know what might be there, and I want/NEED to make sure it isn't given a chance to get any further.
Yes, I do give everything an occasional serious disinfection - in the case of my cages, it is usually only once or twice a year. Why so infrequently? They are in the same place, with the same animals, and not exposed to anything. As long as there are no issues, routine is appropriate. As I explained in chat, though, tubs and waterbowls are a different story. I don't hold to strict tub assignments (this is THIS snake's tub). I have groups in 12 qt, 15 qt, 28 qt, 32 qt, and 41 qt. Any of the 12 qt tubs (for example) can be used for any animal in that group, so they are given more frequent serious disinfections - keep in mind that I keep a few spares to facilitate the process, so I may change out 4-5 tubs, clean them, then continue. Sometimes it is easier to set a tub aside for real cleaning than to deal with it with chlorhexidine & paper towels. Or, if there is something that warrants attention - say, loose stool - that tub gets the real deal, and the space gets marked for me to observe.
I only wipe waterbowls clean a couple times before they go for a bleach bath & scrub - too many nasties can grow in there.
Obviously, the bigger the collection, the more we look for ways to make our work more efficient. With one or two animals, it is easy to do everything meticulously. Jump to 15-20, and routines change. Get to 50, and there are still more differences. Hopefully, one does not get to that point (or beyond) without the drive to still take proper care of the animals. I don't have a huge collection, but I still don't necessarily spot clean everything every day (I admit it). Some animals, I won't even spot clean - its all or nothing (actually, that depends on the animal AND the setup...paper substrate does not lend itself well to good spot cleaning, IMO). When I get the rest of my world squared away, and I can dump my second job, I'll happily divert most of my newly found time back to my animals (donations toward my financial well-being, and, therefore, to the health and welfare of my animals, will be graciously accepted - contact me for paypal info )
Ah, back on topic...what I was getting at was that a bunch of us feel your pain, Deb. We want the ideal products, not just for our own sake, but for our animals. In the meantime, we make do with what we have, and devise a routine that works for us. Obviously, we may have varied ideas on how to approach things, but comparing notes would be boring otherwise.
(and I hope you really understood that I was mostly playing with you in chat the other day...I tend to zoom in on, and target, little discrepancies like that)
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GrayKat97
Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Posts: 56 Location: Western PA
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Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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| deborahbroadus wrote: |
Nolvasan Solution Disinfectant needs a high level of ventilation and my set up is in the basement. Also it seems that it's dangerous if it gets on hands or skin or scales.
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Are you talking about before or after it's mixed up? I ask because I've been using it for years to flush abscessed (sp) cats, and even sometimes for my own minor wounds (if it's handier than the bactine).
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deborahbroadus Moderator

Joined: 16 Jul 2006 Posts: 6671 Location: Baltimore, MD
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Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 9:17 am Post subject: |
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| GrayKat97 wrote: | | deborahbroadus wrote: |
Nolvasan Solution Disinfectant needs a high level of ventilation and my set up is in the basement. Also it seems that it's dangerous if it gets on hands or skin or scales.
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Are you talking about before or after it's mixed up? I ask because I've been using it for years to flush abscessed (sp) cats, and even sometimes for my own minor wounds (if it's handier than the bactine). |
Talking about when using it. In my case, that would be after it's mixed. I would think it was too strong to be used undiluted.
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GrayKat97
Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Posts: 56 Location: Western PA
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Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 9:47 am Post subject: |
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When mixed properly, Nolvasan S can be used, not only for cleaning, but also as a flush for wounds that have abscessed, to sterilize surgical instruments, and other than being drying, I've never had a problem with it on my skin or hands.
Just wanted to set your mind at ease.
(you're right about the undiluted stuff though)
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deborahbroadus Moderator

Joined: 16 Jul 2006 Posts: 6671 Location: Baltimore, MD
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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 460
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 2:21 am Post subject: |
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Deb,
As you know, I just recently saw this...
I have done some looking, but still need some more stuff.
Based on a preliminary look, and my impression of the way you do things, it might not be the best choice for you - It is definitely one of those USE AS DIRECTED kind of products.
It does look interesting, but some variables might not make it a viable option for general usage. Details to follow soon, once I have a chance to look through some of the more detailed info.
(just wanted you to know I wasn't forgetting)
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