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fschwartz
Joined: 03 May 2008
Posts: 21
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 Posted: Sat May 17, 2008 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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We bought the Big Apple BAH-1000SC thermostat, and have been fighting with the thing since the day we got it.
Let me back up and explain the situation. We have the 20L tank from Zilla. We are using aspen substrate. On the cooler side, we have a small UTH, and if we keep that running 24x7, along with a red bulb overhead, it stays exactly at 80, but the bulb lowers the humidity. On the warmer side, we have a medium UTH, supposedly made for 30-40 gallon tanks. We found that we have to use the aspen substrate, or the heater will never get the temp up to 90. So, on the warmer side, we have the BAH-1000SC thermostat. The temp is all over the place. Very inaccurate. It goes as low as 85, and as high as 97. After reading this thread, I'm thinking we may want to get one of the Helix controllers. But I have a question. This will only regulate one side of the tank, correct? So I'd have to buy two of these thermostats if I wanted to do away with the overhead light, which is affecting the humidity?
How do you guys regulate your temps (not the ones with the racks of snakes, those of you who have one snake in a tank)? I find it hard to believe you have to buy two $150 thermostats, and two oversize heaters in order to regulate the temperature in a small 20gallon tank...
I came across this: http://reptilebasics.com/Double-Ranco-ETC-111000-Pre-Wired-p-16177.html
Double Ranco ETC-111000 Pre Wired, which appears to be two separate thermostats, but it looks like there are just six outlets, and they're all connected, and it only makes mention of one probe. Anyone have any experience, knowledge, or opinions on this product?
Thanks,
Frank
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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 504
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| Posted: Sat May 17, 2008 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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I don't have time to address your post in full at the moment (maybe later tonite), but here's the story on the double (Ranco) thermostat you linked to:
The two are wired in series...one (I think it is the left one) controls the heating device(s), the other is set a few degrees higher & the purpose is to serve as a back up if the other fails. I'm pretty sure that is Jeff Ronne's brainchild - check boaphileplastics.com (look under thermostats), I'm sure there is a better description there.
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BP_Lover
Joined: 18 Apr 2008
Posts: 160
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| Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 12:30 am Post subject: |
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i would be buying a 32 quart tubs rack and a heat lamp and pad of 55 gallon tank ..... the flexwatt is 4 in i think could i do both on same thermastat
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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 504
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| Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 1:53 am Post subject: |
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| BP_Lover wrote: | | i would be buying a 32 quart tubs rack and a heat lamp and pad of 55 gallon tank ..... the flexwatt is 4 in i think could i do both on same thermastat |
what???
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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 504
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| Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 2:29 am Post subject: |
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| fschwartz wrote: | | We bought the Big Apple BAH-1000SC thermostat, and have been fighting with the thing since the day we got it. |
Fighting with it is a losing battle. You aren't going to get it to do what you want it to...you have to learn what it can do, and use it accordingly.
| fschwartz wrote: | | Let me back up and explain the situation. We have the 20L tank from Zilla. We are using aspen substrate. On the cooler side, we have a small UTH, and if we keep that running 24x7, along with a red bulb overhead, it stays exactly at 80, but the bulb lowers the humidity. On the warmer side, we have a medium UTH, supposedly made for 30-40 gallon tanks. We found that we have to use the aspen substrate, or the heater will never get the temp up to 90. So, on the warmer side, we have the BAH-1000SC thermostat. The temp is all over the place. Very inaccurate. It goes as low as 85, and as high as 97. After reading this thread, I'm thinking we may want to get one of the Helix controllers. But I have a question. This will only regulate one side of the tank, correct? So I'd have to buy two of these thermostats if I wanted to do away with the overhead light, which is affecting the humidity? |
you have a 20 long, and 3 different heat sources...which of them are plugged into your thermostat? (it sounds like just the larger UTH.) At what temperature is the Tstat set? Where is the probe for the thermostat located? Where are you measuring temperatures? and how? What is the wattage of the red bulb you are using? Are you leaving that light on at all times? If not, how much of the temp fluctuation is related to the light being turned on & off?
I am not familiar with that particular thermostat (though I have looked it up & read the company blurb), but it really sounds more like a setup problem than a Tstat issue. UTHs don't do a whole lot to increase ambient temperatures in a screen topped aquarium - what they do is provide surface warmth. While a defective Tstat is a possibility, I am inclined to think that the wandering temperatures you are seeing is due to a combination of factors: 1) thermometer placement (and/or crappy thermometer), 2) probe placement, 3) fluctuating room temps, and possibly user error (for lack of a less direct, but still accurate term).
You say that you have to use aspen, or the temps would never reach 90. What is the basis for that statement? Did you try another substrate first? what was it, and what happened?
Have you checked the temp of the uncontrolled UTH? Have you measured surface/substrate temps under the light? Have you confirmed whether the UTH controlled by the Tstat is reaching the desired temperature, and that the Tstat is cycling properly?
An in depth discussion on this situation is probably better suited to a different thread -
I also wouldn't recommend buying an expensive thermostat without figuring out why you are having these problems. If it isn't a Tstat issue, it would be a waste of money....and you will probably still experience the same issues til you sort through everything. A proportional Tstat will help minimize temperature fluctuations by adjusting power to the heat source. In this case, it will stabilize the temperature of the bigger UTH (since that is what is plugged into it. Yes, the Helix has 3 outlets (as does the Herpstat, for that matter, and it is a bit less expensive), but it's intended use is to operate like heat sources in separate cages. One can use it to operate different items, as long as the impact of that decision is thought through.
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fschwartz
Joined: 03 May 2008
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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You're right. I am moving this discussion back to my original thread. I posted my question here, because it was directly related to the tstat that was recommended here.
Here is the original thread, and where I've continued the discussion. Thanks for your reply.
http://www.rcreptiles.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3674
Frank
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TalismanK9
Joined: 02 Oct 2008
Posts: 46
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| Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:56 am Post subject: |
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Our local Wal-Mart carries 2 brands and I have tested the Wal-Mart Springfield digital temp/humidity gauge for accuracy against my $125.00 automotive infrared digital thermometer and have found the Wal-Mart unit to be with-in 1* +/- and the Wal-Mart unit only cost me $6.97 so I have full confidence on the Wal-Mart one. 
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ryancbj22
Moderator
Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 729
Location: Columbus Ohio
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| Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 10:17 am Post subject: |
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The nice thing about an infrared thermometer is the fact you only purchase one and thats it.
When you have a rack or numerous cages it gets pretty costly to buy a $15 thermometer for every single tub or cage. In my case to purchase that many thermometers it would cost me over $500 to have one in every tub and cage. The infrared you can just open the tub point, click, and theres your temp. 
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deborahbroadus
Moderator
Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Posts: 6746
Location: Baltimore, MD
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| Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 11:28 am Post subject: |
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| ryancbj22 wrote: | The nice thing about an infrared thermometer is the fact you only purchase one and thats it.
When you have a rack or numerous cages it gets pretty costly to buy a $15 thermometer for every single tub or cage. In my case to purchase that many thermometers it would cost me over $500 to have one in every tub and cage. The infrared you can just open the tub point, click, and theres your temp. |
I agree! I have two..one on each side of the room so that I have one at my fingertips anytime!
The one he showed is also for displaying humdity. People that have their snakes in glass cages have a more pressing concern about humidity and some people that don't have theirs in glass cages do too. Does the infared that you have also function as a humidity barometer?
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costman
Joined: 26 Nov 2008
Posts: 3
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| Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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I have a question. I have a 20 gallon long tank. I am using an undertank heater and a clamp light that has a dimmer on it. Do I still need a thermastat? The store sold me a manual thermastat but that seems to defeat the purpose with a dimmer already on the clamp light. I see that there is an automatic series 500r but I am having a difficult time find this in any store. Any advise/sugggestions?
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snakesRkewl
Joined: 20 Jun 2008
Posts: 987
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| Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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| costman wrote: | | I have a question. I have a 20 gallon long tank. I am using an undertank heater and a clamp light that has a dimmer on it. Do I still need a thermastat? |
Yes, you still need a thermostat, to keep the uth from overheating.
| costman wrote: | | I see that there is an automatic series 500r but I am having a difficult time find this in any store. Any advise/sugggestions? |
They are hard to find in stores, I purchase mine on ebay, but there is many places to get them online.
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