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stumpy_wigmaker
Joined: 23 Aug 2006 Posts: 127
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:06 pm Post subject: Heat pad or not!? |
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Hey all! Well im a newbie bp owner...well I dont even have her yet to be honest lol but this sunday im going to buy her!! Ive always wanted one and so im finnaly going to do it!!! ive been reading alot about them online and in books just gathering as much knowledge as possible. Ive had the cage set-up for a week now, just making sure i can keep the temp and humidity right before I get her, so its perfect when she comes home! Anyway enough about that, I have a few small problems. The big one is temp, I have a 40 gal tank, with a 100 watt lamp at one end, water bowl in middle and a house on the other side(Away from lamp) When the lamp is on the temp is great, but at night when I shut it down the temp goes just under 70F? is that to cold? or should I consider buying a heat pad under the tank to help with that? Thanks so much guys!!!! Love the site, and all the info, I'll post some pics sunday!!! I would be more than happy to get any other newbie info for you guys! 
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ted1025
Joined: 15 Aug 2006 Posts: 309
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not as educated as everyone on here but I'm pretty sure you should def. have a under tank heater on there...
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Jordan700
Joined: 29 May 2006 Posts: 1048 Location: Petaluma, California
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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I would put a UTH on the tank. But make sure the snake can't come in contact with the high heat emitted from UTH. A thermostat is the best to have, just set it to whatever you want and your good to go. 
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stumpy_wigmaker
Joined: 23 Aug 2006 Posts: 127
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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yeah from reading, most poeple use them, would i need the heat lamp if i have that in there? Cause with that heat lamp my humidity seems to be much harder to control, its a big tank and keeping it at 60-70% is tough work! every time i turn it one it stays around 50 or so, withought it goes to 65ish
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Jordan700
Joined: 29 May 2006 Posts: 1048 Location: Petaluma, California
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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If you have a big enough water dish you can put the light over it to raise the humidity. Also cover 3/4 of the screen to trap in more humidity. Hope this helps! 
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stumpy_wigmaker
Joined: 23 Aug 2006 Posts: 127
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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Yes thank you very much, I just moved some stuff around in there and put a pretty good size water dish under the lamp. Do I still need to provide another water dish, or "water cave" in the tank? And when i do get a heat pad and place it under the tank, where would be the best spot, and do i need my heat lamp after that? lol sorry for all the questions but i wanna get as much info as i can before sunday and she comes home!!!!!! 
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Jordan700
Joined: 29 May 2006 Posts: 1048 Location: Petaluma, California
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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Put it on either end of the tank; and if the one water dish always has water in it, you dont need a second. 
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mleaster
Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 449 Location: Oklahoma City,Ok 73132
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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I can tell you by my experience and with Rons expertise that it is much easier to keep the humidity level without the heat lamp. (Actually it was a basking lamp). I am now using a 75 watt bulb and I may go down to 60.
Ron please tell me if this is wrong to do.
Thanks
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RonCrawford Site Admin

Joined: 04 May 2006 Posts: 2047 Location: Pottsville, PA (USA)
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:30 am Post subject: |
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| mleaster wrote: | I can tell you by my experience and with Rons expertise that it is much easier to keep the humidity level without the heat lamp. (Actually it was a basking lamp). I am now using a 75 watt bulb and I may go down to 60.
Ron please tell me if this is wrong to do.
Thanks |
Humidity usually becomes an issue as we approach and enter the winter season. 75-60 watts should produce a good basking area depending on how large the tank is and the distance the light or ceramic emitter is from the substrate. Try to keep it in the upper 80F range, closer to 90F is ideal.
I think I addressed your question but let me know if I didn't and I'll try to clarify where needed. :smile:
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Jordan700
Joined: 29 May 2006 Posts: 1048 Location: Petaluma, California
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:41 am Post subject: |
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Just remember, to have humidity you need heat. Just like on a cold soda can. When the water in the air gets cold it condensates, leaving less water in the air(less humidity). But you most likely already know this!
I keep my room at 80F. And I have no problems with humidity.
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stumpy_wigmaker
Joined: 23 Aug 2006 Posts: 127
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:24 am Post subject: |
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Yeah the humidity is my only concern, I think I bought to big of tank, but I was only thinking of saving money down the road cause she will need it later. The humidity as of this morning was at 60% basking spot at 93F and cool side at 80F, do these numbers seem right to you guys? Like I said I have a large water bowl under the lamp, and im covering 2/3rds of the tank and I have a wood substrate that retains water. So I think everything is looking good? Ron I was reading a earlier post about having two even three hide spot in that big of tank for a little guy? PLease tell me if im missing anything!!!! Only two day before I get her!!! im so excited!!! 
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Jordan700
Joined: 29 May 2006 Posts: 1048 Location: Petaluma, California
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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The humidity is good, but you may need to do light misting when she’s in the shed process. Some of my snakes don’t shed well at only 60%. Since you have such a big cage you can make a shed box. This will help her get the right level of humidity while also giving her an extra hide.
I use the basic plastic critter keeping cages. You want one that your snake fits snug in. One that is too big or too small your snake won't feel secure. I cover all of the vents with duct tape, and take off that clear little plastic door that’s on the top for the snake to enter and leave from. I then fill it about half way with moistened shredded bark (the one sold by the brick). Depending on how much water you add you can get the humidity to around 80%, with out much trouble. I place the shed box on the warmer side. The heat helps raise the humidity. I think I got everything....
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stumpy_wigmaker
Joined: 23 Aug 2006 Posts: 127
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Posted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you jordan and everyone else for your help!! I do have one question haha. Since im using my heat lamp to make more humidity(over the water bowl) do I still need an UTH? The temps look good, alittle low at night. Should I turn the UTH on when I turn my lamp off? k I lied one more question, will i need a flouresent bulb on the other end of the cage? the guys at the pet store said thats where they get there vitamins from the sun and stuff? any thoughts?
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Jordan700
Joined: 29 May 2006 Posts: 1048 Location: Petaluma, California
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Posted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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If it gets hot enough with the basking light, then no you dont need the UTH. But if it gets cold at night you can go ahead and turn it on.
About your question with the UVB light. Its not needed with ball pythons, and shouldn't be used. It can actually cause cancer over LONG periods of time(years). Hope this helps! 
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deborahbroadus Moderator

Joined: 16 Jul 2006 Posts: 6873 Location: Baltimore, MD
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Posted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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Let me just jump in here....Balls need belly heat to digest their food. If your ambivent heat is 90 but your belly heat is colder..they can not digest their food properly.
If the way you decide to heat keeps the substrate at the correct temps on both ends..go for it. However, you will need a probe thermometer or temp gun to correctly monitor those temps. That issue is covered in the Thermometer post.
Good luck with your new "PET"
p.s. your surface temps should not fall below 80 (to be safe) some say 75...I leave a margin for error because no UTH or Thermometer is 100% correct.
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