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dragon2285



Joined: 25 Mar 2008
Posts: 192
Location: N.Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 11:46 am    Post subject: rack question Reply with quote


i'm probably going to start building a mini rack soon since i found the perfect place to fit it in. but my question is how do you keep the temp/humidity in check? i'm sure there isn't a gauge or sensor in each tub. and inside each tub is there a hide and water bowl? another is with the rack the tub would should fit perfectly so you won't hav use to the lid of the tub right? and do you need to drill any holes anywhere on the tub for air? i think thats all the questions i have on racks for now, oh what is the best material to make racks out of?


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ryancbj22



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 747
Location: Columbus Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I just built one and made it to where there is less than a 16th of an inch gap between the tub and the shelf. I use flex-watt heat tape very cheap and easy to wire. I tape it down with foil tape from home-depot or where ever. I have a t-stat and I tape the probe directly on to the heat tape. You can wire the flex-watt for each shelf so there all wired together into one plug. I have a thermometer in each tub and a water bowl with one or two hides. Humidity is not a problem if it's too high move the water bowl to the cool side. I drilled about 4 or 5 holes in the front and back of my tub to let some air in and humidity out.... Racks are perfect for balls they make an aquarium look like rocket science there so much easier to have than a glass tank....
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ryancbj22



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 747
Location: Columbus Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you go to the diy section of this forum there is a thread that says custom built rack that is the one I made and it was pretty easy. I actually just made a second one yesterday and perfected it a little more since I made some mistakes on the first one. I used a 4x8 sheet of melomine I got it at home-depot for $30 the flex-watt with shipping was $40 and the tubs are $5 a piece there 27qt sterilite tubs....
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Buck_99
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 03 Nov 2006
Posts: 1358
Location: Midlothian, VA

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll get debate over the best material, so I'll leave that one to the pros and answer your other questions.

Quote:
how do you keep the temp/humidity in check? i'm sure there isn't a gauge or sensor in each tub

Once you switch to tubs in a rack, your challenge will be preventing moisture because it will become very humid. You'll need to add holes in the tubs to allow some humidity to escape. Take your time and find the right number of holes to achieve the right balance. Without the holes you'll get condensation on the sides and that will flow down into the substrate, and that's not good. You want dry substrate, humid air. You'll only need one gauge...the humidity will be about the same in all the tubs.

Quote:
so you won't hav use to the lid of the tub right?

Correct.

Quote:
do you need to drill any holes anywhere on the tub for air?

Yes, although rarely will you have an air tight tub. The holes are more to prevent moisture build-up and to encourage fresh air flow. But I'd use a soldering iron to melt the holes instead of a drill, or else there's a good possibility you'll crack the plastic.

Hope this helps.

.
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dragon2285



Joined: 25 Mar 2008
Posts: 192
Location: N.Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so its gonna be heat tape/foil/ then tub right? lol i wanna test first before i put anything in cuz knowin me i'll probably mess something up
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ryancbj22



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 747
Location: Columbus Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes that's correct. If you google how to wire flex-watt it tells you exactly how to do it. It's very simple....
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RonCrawford
Site Admin
Site Admin


Joined: 04 May 2006
Posts: 2042
Location: Pottsville, PA (USA)

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ryancbj22 wrote:
yes that's correct. If you google how to wire flex-watt it tells you exactly how to do it. It's very simple....

Or take a look at - How to wire Flexwatt
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dragon2285



Joined: 25 Mar 2008
Posts: 192
Location: N.Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sry forgot to ask that the heat tape go on the back of the tub or under like the UTHs
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ryancbj22



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 747
Location: Columbus Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's up to you mine is 11inch piece of flex-watt taped to the shelf that the tub sits on not to the tub itself but like I said you can do back heat depending on what type of back you build the rack out of make sure it's going to withstand the heat....
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dragon2285



Joined: 25 Mar 2008
Posts: 192
Location: N.Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so instead of building, i thought buying a rack would be easier lol. i narrowed it down to 2 thermostats and wanted to get some opinions which is better or worst then the other. i decided on the helix and the herpstat 2, was gonna get pro but its like $100 more. as for the rack it was gonna be one at reptile basics either the most likely the 7tub rack. oh and is it possible to EFFECTIVELY use the night drop option since the rack will be in my room and the lights doesn't usually go off till late.
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PlayBall



Joined: 11 Feb 2008
Posts: 618
Location: Chicago, IL

PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either one are very good t-stats. Most people use the helix bc it has huge display numbers that you can see across the room and they're also very accurate. I also had to decide between them two and I went with the herpstat2, knowing me I know some day in the future I will need to buy another rack and/or incubator. U can control two different racks/heat source with individual temps for each and everything is built in, night drop, light dimmer, alarm, proportional or non proportional.
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NickMyers03
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 12 Dec 2006
Posts: 1912
Location: fredericksburg va

PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dragon2285 wrote:
ok so instead of building, i thought buying a rack would be easier lol. i narrowed it down to 2 thermostats and wanted to get some opinions which is better or worst then the other. i decided on the helix and the herpstat 2, was gonna get pro but its like $100 more. as for the rack it was gonna be one at reptile basics either the most likely the 7tub rack. oh and is it possible to EFFECTIVELY use the night drop option since the rack will be in my room and the lights doesn't usually go off till late.


Can i ask why you need a Night Drop? it doesnt seem your set up for breeding and this is the only reason you would need one. when you have a rack system with a helix all you need to do is set it at the temp you want ( i use 90 ) and leave it be. even though i am breeding i still DONT drop temps and they are breeding and laying eggs. Night drop is not a good idea for a herper who hasnt been dealing with Balls for a while because there is a large risk of getting an RI when this is done.
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dragon2285



Joined: 25 Mar 2008
Posts: 192
Location: N.Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OH thx, i jus thought it was best to have a night drop when you start breeding, i must have misread that somewhere. so do you just set the lower temp when they start breeding?
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NickMyers03
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 12 Dec 2006
Posts: 1912
Location: fredericksburg va

PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mine stay at 90, 365 days a year. there are so many breeders that do so many diffrent things. i have spoken to many of them and from this have found no reason to drop temps. i use rack systems that regulate temps so i have a 90 degree hot spot on the back and it goes to 80 in the front.

when females are trying to build follices they will go to the front and wrap them selves around the water bowl. alot of the bigger breeders are not droping temps now because their snakes are breeding and laying eggs 100% the same no matter what.

this also helps to fight getting an RI
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deborahbroadus
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Posts: 6855
Location: Baltimore, MD

PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dragon2285 wrote:
OH thx, i jus thought it was best to have a night drop when you start breeding, i must have misread that somewhere. so do you just set the lower temp when they start breeding?


Are you getting ready to breed? Do you have more snakes or just that tank that I saw in an earllier picture. Are your snakes breeding size or are you just entertaining the thought of breeding at a later date?

If so, check out Ron's blogs (link at the top of the page).
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