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tigasnake
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 23
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:09 pm Post subject: Doing it wrong? Humidity/Distinfectant discussion |
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Hi, all. I am new to the community and new to actually owning a ball python.
I recently purchased a 4 month old ball, and have it in a 40 gallon enclosure. The tank has desert snow substrate, made by T-Rex Products, and a store bought "rock water dish". Its hide is a common 1/2 log from a pet store and a log that ascends above the hide. I use a PetMeds Red night light and a fluorescent and day-light. Basking side is 95-97 for the past 4 days (during the day) and the cool side (with the water bowl) is a steady 78 degrees. At night, basking side is 82-83. Cool side is 74-76.
Now I acquired the snake less than 4 days ago and it has been exploring its cage. It is a beautiful captive born normal ball.
What would I be doing wrong?
I began handling it hours after it was placed in the cage for the first time... from what I've read here, that's mistake #1. Mistake #2.. for the past 3 days (before I smacked my self around in stupidity) I kept the fluorescent bulb on during night, and wondered why the ball showed meager activity. Now I have just the under-tank heat pad running and the red night light. Mistake #3 (the best one ) was when I attempted to feed it a F/T mouse today in a big cardboard box (as an alternate feeding area) and wondered why it smelled then ignored the food.
Am I going too fast? Do you think I'm too used to Iguanas and their quick adaptive nature? I researched ball pythons a lot, and a video I like a lot is the reptilestv.com care episode. I just seem to keep rushing to things.
From this point, what should I do to help the snake ease stress? The reptilestv.com herpetologist mentioned that handling the snake (even after it was just moved to a new cage) keeps it tame and used to your presence, so I hope to avoid "leaving it alone" for like a week.
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Number 2
Joined: 29 Jul 2007 Posts: 487 Location: Kaukauna, WI
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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I think you have it right by realizing not to hold her.
I wait around a week to try feeding mine. After they feed, I wait about 3 days or so to handle them.
It sounds like you have been doing your research though. Just be patient. There is a ton of reading to do in the meantime.
Read Ron's Blog (found above in the links section). You will find a ton of info there.
What is the humidity at in its viv?
Also, add a second hide so there is one on each end.
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PlayBall
Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Posts: 371 Location: Chicago, IL
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, you're moving too fast. Leave it alone for a good whole week or two, but before doing this, make sure its whole tank setup is perfect (hides, temps and humidity) I've never used the desert snow substrate before so I don't know if it's good or not. Don't try to feed it or handle it until after one week+. What are you using to measure the temps? Can you post pics of the current setup? I know how much you want to handle and play with your new pet but it needs to get settle in its new home first. I recently got two new bps and I too can't wait to handle them but it is for their best
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tigasnake
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 23
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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I put the humidity meter in the middle of the tank. I'm also thinking of changing the floor to Cypress Mulch and adding some flora. When I was shopping, the associate literally argued with me that the snake is a desert animal and that I MUST choose desert snow to keep it happy. The humidity is 40% during the daytime and 60% at night time. I'm curious as to why it goes up after the heat from above turn off.
I'll post pictures tomorrow morning, since I have nothing better to do after getting ready for work...
So Number 2, you said that I have to avoid handling for about a week. That won't make the snake go back to thinking I'm a stranger the next time it's handled?
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tigasnake
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 23
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:43 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the response also, Playball. Yeh, I plan to add another hide. Once you see the setup (which is a bit plain to me) you'll see that there's plenty of room to place it near the water dish.
Also, the devices used to measure the temps are Zilla Thermometers ( on each side) and a Humidifier (at the middle).
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Number 2
Joined: 29 Jul 2007 Posts: 487 Location: Kaukauna, WI
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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| tigasnake wrote: | I put the humidity meter in the middle of the tank. I'm also thinking of changing the floor to Cypress Mulch and adding some flora. When I was shopping, the associate literally argued with me that the snake is a desert animal and that I MUST choose desert snow to keep it happy. The humidity is 40% during the daytime and 60% at night time. I'm curious as to why it goes up after the heat from above turn off.
I'll post pictures tomorrow morning, since I have nothing better to do after getting ready for work...
So Number 2, you said that I have to avoid handling for about a week. That won't make the snake go back to thinking I'm a stranger the next time it's handled? |
The heat lamp will dry the tank up quickly.
You have the whole lifetime of the snake to get it used to you. No need to stress it out the first week.
Cypress will raise the humidity. That will help a lot.
I made the same mistake with my first BP and she didn't eat for four or five weeks.
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RonCrawford Site Admin

Joined: 04 May 2006 Posts: 1871 Location: Pottsville, PA (USA)
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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| tigasnake wrote: | | When I was shopping, the associate literally argued with me that the snake is a desert animal and that I MUST choose desert snow to keep it happy. |
Why does statements like this not surprise me? Next time you're shopping, tell the "associate" about our website so he or she can get some fundamental education on ball pythons. Sometimes "misinformation" can lead to the death of a ball python so it's important for keepers (and pet store associates alike) to get a better understanding of this wonderful serpent. I can remember when I first acquired my ball python some years ago (circa B.C. 600) and the lady at the pet store (the expert mind you) had me purchase a heat rock. The same heat rock that caused a severe burn to its belly.
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Number 2
Joined: 29 Jul 2007 Posts: 487 Location: Kaukauna, WI
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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My pet store guy also argued the humidity with me, basically the same scenario as Tiga. He insisted that they live in dry grass lands or something like that.
Luckily I found RC!!! (And I'm not just trying to suck up ) I now have happy snakes!
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pdig69
Joined: 01 Apr 2008 Posts: 113
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:20 am Post subject: Re: New Ball Python Owner, Doing it wrong? |
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| tigasnake wrote: | Hi, all. I am new to the community and new to actually owning a ball python..
hello! my name is dave and there are easy answers for your questions.[/
I recently purchased a 4 month old ball, and have it in a 40 gallon enclosure. The tank has desert snow substrate, made by T-Rex Products, and a store bought "rock water dish". Its hide is a common 1/2 log from a pet store and a log that ascends above the hide. I use a PetMeds Red night light and a fluorescent and day-light. Basking side is 95-97 for the past 4 days (during the day) and the cool side (with the water bowl) is a steady 78 degrees. At night, basking side is 82-83. Cool side is 74-76.
You did the temperature aspect perfectly. Couldn't really be better.
Now I acquired the snake less than 4 days ago and it has been exploring its cage. It is a beautiful captive born normal ball.
What would I be doing wrong?
So far.. not much
I began handling it hours after it was placed in the cage for the first time... from what I've read here, that's mistake #1.
It is, but isn't in my opinion. I would wait atleast three days if you can't wait at all.
Mistake #2.. for the past 3 days (before I smacked my self around in stupidity) I kept the fluorescent bulb on during night, and wondered why the ball showed meager activity. Now I have just the under-tank heat pad running and the red night light.
good, save the flourescent for the day. you can even buy an outlet timer and hook the flourescent bulb to this and have the light turn on and off for you so you don't have to constantly keep up at the exact times.
Mistake #3 (the best one ) was when I attempted to feed it a F/T mouse today in a big cardboard box (as an alternate feeding area) and wondered why it smelled then ignored the food.
This right here is a little mistake, but I know everyone recommends this method so your hand doesn't become food later in your balls life. A baby ball python, in your case, isn't 100% confident in his skills of hunting.
In the words of deb, "They are ambush eaters and need security" - deborahbroadus
Moderator
you need to put a hide in his feeding box, so he can "hide' from the prey until he decides he is comfortable enough to attack the mouse. he must warm up to the new surroundings, feel good about his current position inside this box, and then attack when he feels like it. after a month or two, he should grow enough confidence to attack right away, but for now he's a scared little guy. help him out.
Am I going too fast? Do you think I'm too used to Iguanas and their quick adaptive nature? I researched ball pythons a lot, and a video I like a lot is the reptilestv.com care episode. I just seem to keep rushing to things.
No, not rushing at all. seems like you care very much! thats great!
From this point, what should I do to help the snake ease stress? The reptilestv.com herpetologist mentioned that handling the snake (even after it was just moved to a new cage) keeps it tame and used to your presence, so I hope to avoid "leaving it alone" for like a week. |
two hides are great,
.they like humidity around 50% all the time, 60-70 when shedding
.change water once a week
.keep the temps going the way they are
.aspen bedding is in my opinion the easiest to use, i don't know about desert bedding, he may not be genetically predisposed to enjoy that.
.the more he sees you and the more he gets used to you, the more he'll move around while you're out and on the prowl
.they like to be cluttered, if you're going to buy plants and leave looking things, that is a great idea! too much is just enough for him, just give him space to crawl around and explore
IMPORTANT! ball pythons enjoy being cramped into their hide, logs arent sufficient being there are two openings and its relatively just open space. get a house looking thing from your pet store and make sure he can cram in. they love it : ) this is something that is def important
Well hope i helped!! Goodluck with your new guy!
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cupcake
Joined: 02 Apr 2008 Posts: 27
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:18 am Post subject: |
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Is daytime temps on the warm side of 95 -97 degrees fahrenheit not too high? I have mine at 90 - 92 degrees fahrenheit during the day on the warm side. Cool side daytime temps 80 - 85 degrees fahrenheit with a 5 degree drop at night.
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Buck_99 Moderator

Joined: 03 Nov 2006 Posts: 1247 Location: Midlothian, VA
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 12:06 pm Post subject: |
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What pdig69 said about the hides is critical. 40 gallon tank for a 4-month old snake is huge, poor snake is going to feel overwhelmed. Give him something nice and tight to hide in. Several somethings, actually, as folks have been saying, at both ends. And give him some cover so he can make it from one hide to the next without feeling exposed.
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tigasnake
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 23
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry guys. Haven't had time to add pics. Work was murder.
One more question. I know Cypress Mulch has been suggested a lot. What about Eco-Earth Coconut Bedding? Has anyone tried that at all?
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arlynos
Joined: 10 Mar 2008 Posts: 562 Location: whitney point, ny
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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I've seen people who have used it, unless you are willing to clean up a big mess everytime you change it you dont want to go with it, that it take a while to set up with the absorbing of water into it to expand it. Though it is a good natural substrate, I choose ot use reptibark its a very good substrate and easy to spot clean, and you can reuse it if you clean it properly.
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pdig69
Joined: 01 Apr 2008 Posts: 113
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:36 am Post subject: |
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| arlynos wrote: | | I've seen people who have used it, unless you are willing to clean up a big mess everytime you change it you dont want to go with it, that it take a while to set up with the absorbing of water into it to expand it. Though it is a good natural substrate, I choose ot use reptibark its a very good substrate and easy to spot clean, and you can reuse it if you clean it properly. |
Hey arlynos, how do you clean reptibark to reuse it? I used it but Aspen was better to buy in bulk eventhough I like reptibark. If thats the case, then, how many times can you reuse it as well?
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arlynos
Joined: 10 Mar 2008 Posts: 562 Location: whitney point, ny
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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| pdig69 wrote: | | arlynos wrote: | | I've seen people who have used it, unless you are willing to clean up a big mess everytime you change it you dont want to go with it, that it take a while to set up with the absorbing of water into it to expand it. Though it is a good natural substrate, I choose ot use reptibark its a very good substrate and easy to spot clean, and you can reuse it if you clean it properly. |
Hey arlynos, how do you clean reptibark to reuse it? I used it but Aspen was better to buy in bulk eventhough I like reptibark. If thats the case, then, how many times can you reuse it as well? |
Says on the bag how to clean it, supposed to use a solution of somthing and then dump it in water afterwards.
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