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digitxm
Joined: 23 Feb 2008 Posts: 1
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 11:41 pm Post subject: Cracking Scales |
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Hello everyone. This will be my first post. I inherited my ball python from a friend who wasn't allowed to have it anymore. I can't remember when the last time was that he had a complete shed and I assumed that it was normal to come off in pieces. To start, he has retained some eye caps which haven't come off (I know solutions, I will probably end up taking him to the vet for that. Nothing has worked) but there is a second problem. It seems like the scales on his belly (on a portion of him) are cracking lengthwise. I couldn't find anything on the site regarding this and was wondering if anyone knew what it might be.
Here are my answers to the "before you post questions"
1. I've had him about 5 years. I don't know how long my friend did before me
2. 30"x12"x12" tank, 100W infared lamp above one side of cage
3. Using coconut husk bedding, with a humidity box that has sphagnum moss.
4. Cool side temp: 74
5. Hot side: 90
6. Cage humidity:50% ; Box humidity: 80-90%
7. Digital Temps
8. Two hides: Humidity Box, and Half Log, both big enough to completely hide him
9. Feeding mice
10. Feeding once a week (if he'll take it, just ended a long fast)
11. Large adult mice, he'll eat multiple a week.
I will try to get some pictures, but I can't right now. Any help would be appreciated.
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deborahbroadus Moderator

Joined: 16 Jul 2006 Posts: 6855 Location: Baltimore, MD
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Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 12:33 am Post subject: |
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Without pics it's difficult to give an educated guess, but I can tell you that the cool side is a bit low. The preferred range is about 80...to give room for error because it's not recommended that the cool side falls below 75. My suggestion is below. If the description doesn't match the evidence, and it's not an old burn...I suggest a VET asap.
btw: you stated that you have had the snake for 5 years, has it had those retained eyecaps that long? Are you certain that it's retained eyecaps? Sometimes there can be a swelling behind that eye that leaves the white showing and some have mistaken this condition for eyeshed and as a consequence have blinded their snakes by trying to pull off somethinmg that should not be pulled off.
Scale rot
a disease of snakes with no specific cause, characterized by ulceration of the skin at multiple sites. Death is the usual sequel.
Scale Rot (Neocrotic Dermatitis) appears as enlarged, discolored (rust or reddish-brown), fluid filled scales.
Possible ulceration and breakdown of the skin and underlying tissue. Generally appears on the ventral scales (belly), and can be in one long continuous area or in separate spots. This is a bacterial infection that can be caused by damp substrate, inadequate temperatures, and dirty enclosures. Bad cases will also have blisters, and will require draining by your vet. Serious cases are life-threatening.
Immediately clean the enclosure thoroughly. Raise ambient temperature to 88-90 degrees.
You must keep your boa warm and dry during the recovery process. If your boa tends to soak in the water bowl, it may be necessary to remove the larger bowl and replace it with a very small dish that would
not allow soaking but still provide drinking water.
Clean the entire affected area by swabbing with a 50/50 hydrogen peroxide/water solution.
Must be thorough to treat the entire area because the damaged tissue could be in multiple places.
Apply Polysporin or Neosporin to the affected areas twice a day and work it in and under the scales.
Consult your veterinarian as soon as possible, antibiotic injections may be required.
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wErd
Joined: 16 Jul 2008 Posts: 26
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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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btw: you stated that you have had the snake for 5 years, has it had those retained eyecaps that long? Are you certain that it's retained eyecaps? Sometimes there can be a swelling behind that eye that leaves the white showing and some have mistaken this condition for eyeshed and as a consequence have blinded their snakes by trying to pull off somethinmg that should not be pulled off.
You mentioned swelling in the eyes. I think my Marley may have that problem. Could you give me more information on that?
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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 532
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:06 am Post subject: |
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As long as you are taking him to the vet for the eyecaps, why not ask about the belly scales ?
As Deb said, the information & description in your post don't really help a whole lot regarding the belly scales - but you are right..somebody would have asked anyway, lol. Based upon what has been presented, I wouldn't even hazard an educated guess. Between the eyecaps and the cracking scales, I'd be inclined to lean toward excessive dryness; but there is really no reason for that with coir fiber as a substrate and a good mossy humid hide (unless those are relatively new changes).
Good, clear pictures would help.
Deb, if you don't mind, where did you get that scale rot info?
Oh, and about the eye thing - mites will work their way under the edges of scales around the eyes, causing a gap...many people mistake this for retained eyecaps. Just something else to consider. Pics would help there, too.
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a_green
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 664 Location: Vancouver, BC Canada
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 3:01 am Post subject: |
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Do you have any under-tank heating, and at what level are you measuring temps? Do your thermometers have probes?
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hhmoore
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 532
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 3:39 am Post subject: |
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YIKES, I just took a closer look at the info
| Quote: | | 2. 30"x12"x12" tank, 100W infared lamp above one side of cage | 30x12x12 is a 20 long...a 100w bulb is way too much for that tank (for a snake, at least). At normal room temp, unregulated, that should provide a gradient of about 80 to 120+ (based on past experiences - actual numbers may vary slightly). You might want to take whatever you are using for a thermometer and put it right on top of the substrate under the light. Now, maybe the snake is in a very cool area, like the basement - that would explain the temps you posted - but I would still recommend a different option to attain the proper temps. Most snakes (and many reptiles) will fare far better with two smaller lights vs one larger one...this allows the necessary heat to get good ambient temps throughout the tank without creating a super hot spot.
You say you have had the snake for 5 years...how long has it been in the current setup?.
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jb.t3ch
Joined: 21 Nov 2006 Posts: 572
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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| hhmoore wrote: | YIKES, I just took a closer look at the info
| Quote: | | 2. 30"x12"x12" tank, 100W infared lamp above one side of cage | 30x12x12 is a 20 long...a 100w bulb is way too much for that tank (for a snake, at least). At normal room temp, unregulated, that should provide a gradient of about 80 to 120+ (based on past experiences - actual numbers may vary slightly). You might want to take whatever you are using for a thermometer and put it right on top of the substrate under the light. Now, maybe the snake is in a very cool area, like the basement - that would explain the temps you posted - but I would still recommend a different option to attain the proper temps. Most snakes (and many reptiles) will fare far better with two smaller lights vs one larger one...this allows the necessary heat to get good ambient temps throughout the tank without creating a super hot spot.
You say you have had the snake for 5 years...how long has it been in the current setup?. |
i was going to say the same, that size tank with 100w bulb with my past experiences have proven to be way too much. like hh said you're looking at a gradient of up to if not more than 120. cracking scales sounds like dehydration along with the retained eye caps. you may want to try giving him a warm soak as long as the stuff on his belly isnt scale rot.. trip to the vet would be the best solution.
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deborahbroadus Moderator

Joined: 16 Jul 2006 Posts: 6855 Location: Baltimore, MD
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:38 pm Post subject: |
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| hhmoore wrote: | As long as you are taking him to the vet for the eyecaps, why not ask about the belly scales ?
As Deb said, the information & description in your post don't really help a whole lot regarding the belly scales - but you are right..somebody would have asked anyway, lol. Based upon what has been presented, I wouldn't even hazard an educated guess. Between the eyecaps and the cracking scales, I'd be inclined to lean toward excessive dryness; but there is really no reason for that with coir fiber as a substrate and a good mossy humid hide (unless those are relatively new changes).
Good, clear pictures would help.
Deb, if you don't mind, where did you get that scale rot info?
Oh, and about the eye thing - mites will work their way under the edges of scales around the eyes, causing a gap...many people mistake this for retained eyecaps. Just something else to consider. Pics would help there, too. |
Darn!! I am sorry, I forgot to paste a link like I usually do. I picked it off one of the sites and really can't remember which one. It was targeted towards boas, but I didn't think there was much difference. Maybe I got it from MK? I really don't remember the source. I could probably find it if I were so inclined, but then so could anyone else if they did a keyword search of some of the better search engines.
Hope this helped.
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